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Island Peak Climbing is most popular for peak climbing and expedition for below 6000 Mt. mountain range.

Island Peak Climbing is most popular for peak climbing and expedition for below 6000 Mt. mountain range.

Island Peak Climbing in Nepal

Island Peak climbing (Imja Tse peak climbing) takes you into the heart of the Khumbu, Gokyo (4750m), and Everest Base Camp (5357m). An ascent of Gokyo Ri (5357m) and Kala Pattar (5545m), is good acclimatization and gives you magnificent close-up views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and more. You will cross the little use Chola pass (5420m) and Kongma La Pass (5535m); ascend one of the popular peaks of the Everest region. The name Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge.

Island Peak itself is an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of Imja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung. As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7879m) Lhotse (8501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (8383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier is Cho Polu (6734m) beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8475m). To the south of the Imja Glacier, the icy fluting of Baruntse (7720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6.856m). Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal.

The combination of Everest base camp trek and Island Peak Climbing is probably the most popular and adored trip in Nepal. From Dingboche, the mountain can be seen as an island in a sea of ice. Imja Tse Peak not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of the Himalayas in the Everest region.

Island Peak is considered the best occasion for beginner and median climbers to take on an exacting glacier climb above 20,000 feet (about 6.1 km) in the heart of the Everest Himalayas. En route, members get to walk the famous Trek to Everest Base Camp. 

Physical fitness is necessary for the Island Peak climb. The trip is a steep hike and climbs from 5,100m (about 3.17 mi) up to 6,189m (about 3.85 mi). The hardest part of the climb is the final steep section up the headwall before reaching the summit ridge. Local hill or stair climbs with some weights are the best ways to prepare for the climb. There are two different seasons for peak climbing in Nepal; the Pre-Monsoon season (March-June) and Post-Monsoon (September-November), followed by some winter  

For Travelers to Island Peak Climbing, we can customize the days according to the choice and interest of the travelers or if you have boundless time to explore the Everest region in more depth like the Everest Base Camp Trek, Lobuche Peak Climbing or the Mera Peak Climbing would be a suitable alternative for your vacation. Contact us for further details or individual requests. 

Island Peak Climbing: Altitude Information

Here is a graphical representation of altitude information during Island Peak Climbing (Imja Tse Peak Climbing) 

Island Peak Climbing (Imja Tse peak climbing)

Island Peak Climb / 20 Days - Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) Kathmandu (1300m).

Day 02: Kathmandu: Peak climbing preparation 

Day 03: Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding (2652m) 4-5 hrs.

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) 5-6 hrs.Peak 

Day 05: Acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.

Day 06: Trek to Tyangboche (3867m) 5-6 hrs.

Day 07: Trek to Pheriche (4200m) 4-5 hrs.

Day 08: Pheriche to Lobuche (4928m) 4-5.

Day 09: Trek to EBC (5316m) and back to Gorakshep (4316m) 5-6 hrs.

Day 10: Kalapathar (5550m) hike and stroll back to Dingboche (4358m) 6-7 hrs.

Day 11: Dingboche to Chhukung valley (4730m) 3-4 hrs.

Day 12: Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5200m) 4-5 hrs.

Day 13: Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp (5600m) 3-4 hrs

Day 14: High camp to summit (6189m) to Chhukung, 8-9 hrs.

Day 15: Reserve the day for unforeseen conditions.

Day 16: Chhukung to Tyangboche (3867m) 5-6 hrs.

Day 17: Tyangboche to Namche (3440m) 6-7 hrs.

Day 18: Namche to Lukla (2800m) 6-7 hrs.

Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu 30 min.

Day 20: Farewell Friend (Final departure to your onward destination).

Island Peak Climbing / 20 Days - Detail Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) Kathmandu (1300m).
Namaste & welcome to Mountain Guide Trek of Nepal. Upon your arrival, you will be greeted by a representative from Mountain guide Treks (MGT). After completing your custom formalities (Visa, etc) pick up your luggage and look for our representative with a Mountain Guide Treks and Expedition with the Group leader's name display board at the arrival gate. You will be then transferred to Hotel. After check-in, if time allows, you will visit the MGT office to meet your trekking leader as well as other participants and for final preparation for the trip. It all depends upon your arrival time. (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 02: Kathmandu: Peak Climbing Preparation
Today there will be a pre-trip discussion with our trek & climbing guide and other team members. Mountain Guide Trek will brief you regarding your trek as well as we may have an opportunity to discuss any difficulties regarding our upcoming adventure. The rest of the time you could use it for traveling around the Thamel and shopping for needed equipment and other necessities. (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 03: Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding (2652m) 4-5 hrs.
Early morning you'll be transferred to a domestic airport to fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft). It takes 35 minutes scenic flight to Lukla airport (2,800m/9,184ft) and you will have a tea break, while the guide sort out and divide the load baggage to be carried by porters. The guide will manage the lunch place depending upon the time of arrival at Lukla. The trek starts with a most scenic view of Numbur Himal & Phari. We further on to Phakding passing some Sherpa farm villages. We follow the trail to Dudhkoshi River gradual with a few ups from Thado Koshi, where you can have lunch with a superb view of Kusum-Kangaru (6369m) crossing a short suspension bridge, from here after a short climb brings us to the Ghat village, another 1 ½ hr of gradual walk brings you to Phakding village for the overnight stop at the lodge after 3-4 hrs walk and reminder stroll around the village for local knowledge. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) 5-6 hrs.
The trek starts in the morning and after crossing the suspension bridge over the Dudh-Kosi the walk is pleasant with a few short uphill and downhill and re-crossing the same river again with a magnificent view of Mt. Thamserku (6608m) from the Benkar village. Trek continues crossing the bridges and reaches Monjo where is the entrance gate of the Sagarmatha National Park, where your trekking permit is checked and keeps the record of all trekkers going to and from this place including the local trekking staff as well. When enter the National park boundary we descend and a gradual walk brings us to the suspension bridge over the Bhote-Koshi river, after the bridge Jorsalle village is reached, the last village till Namche Bazaar, from here the walk is pleasant on the river bed till the last bridge over the Imja Tse river is reached, from here the walk is along the winding uphill path to Namche Bazaar, with a magnificent view of Kwangde peak and its other sister peaks towards the east with Kusum Kangaru on the back as you climb higher, view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and the closer view of Tawache peak can be seen from some part on the way to Namche. Finally, we reach colorful houses called Namche Bazaar main gate of the Khumbu region after a 5-6 hrs walk. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 05: Acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.
You may have a full day of leisure today for the acclimatization or stroll around the market if Saturday can be seen many people Saturday market for shopping to fulfill their daily needs and only one shopping market in the surrounding areas. Also, you can visit Sherpa Museum as well a great place to learn about Sherpa culture and history of mountaineering, or visit the luxury Everest view hotel & Syangboche airstrip and stroll back to the hotel overnight. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 06: Trek to Tyangboche (3867m) 5-6 hrs.
After strolling around the Namche, today we refreshed, and fairly easy to walk further on. Our walk follows on the gradual path up to Sanasa overlooking magnificent views of the great giant snow peaks from Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kwangde peak. We descend to Imja Tse River at Phungithanga, a small settlement with a couple of tea houses. The trail leads uphill through the forested path of silver fir, blue pines, rhododendron, and some few magnolia and birch trees get to Tyangboche after a total of 5-6 hrs walk. This is one of the most beautiful places in the Himalayas the first thing that comes to your eye is the big Monastery or Gumba, then the large field with campsites and tea houses, lodges beneath the towering majestic beautiful peak Ama Dablam, Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards northeast and more peaks all around you. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 07: Trek to Pheriche (4200m) 4-5 hrs.
Today start our trek with a pleasant walk and descend through a forest of birch, fir, juniper, and rhododendron and coming to a lovely spot at Deboche 3,650 m with a magnificent view of mountains and past the long prayer Mani wall, the path is gradual up to the Pangboche village, from here onwards the lush vegetation and tree lines vanish we enter the right valley of Pheriche for the overnight. It takes 4-5 hrs walk and during the walk may get wind and better to start early. Pheriche has the Himalayan Rescue Association and can visit there anyway after 3 pm. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 08: Pheriche to Lobuche (4928m) 4-5hrs.
Today the trail diverts towards the north, the path is gradual for about an hour as you come to the bottom of the hill wherefrom we start to climb. After a pleasant walk through the ridge will reach Thukla, an hour steep up brings you to the top, where you can view Mt. Pumori and other peaks west of Everest, the spot here is a good place for a few minutes break after the strenuous climb, close to this spot you can also see several memorials of the unfortunate climber's monuments, who died in expeditions around the mountain of this region. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 09: Trek to EBC (5316m) and back to Gorakshep (4316m) 5-6 hrs.
This early morning we head towards the Gorekshep valley and check in to the hotel. After the breakfast at Gorekshep, we were ready for our adventure to the targeted destination and we continue our trek towards the Everest Base Camp and to the Khumbu Icefall, the path from here can be misleading, follow the lead Sherpa, every year the trail changes due to the movements of the glacier, the walk is quite strenuous due to the high altitude and thin air, the walk passes through over rocky dunes and moraine and streams, till you reach the base camp. Everest Base Camp is lively with commotion during the high expedition season. It takes 2-3 hrs to get to base camp and after a grand time here retrace the journey back to Gorekshep. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 10: Kalapathar (5550m) hike and stroll back to Dingboche (4358m) 6-7 hrs.
Early morning our journey continue steep climb to the top after a 2-hour walk at our pace. After reaching the top, you will feel beaming as you achieve the moment that you have been dreaming, of since the beginning of the journey. Top of Kalapathar is a small rocky peak on the southwest ridge of Mt. Pumori, the view from here is beyond imagination as the Everest looks amazing, the panoramic view from this spot is something to cherish, and you feel it's worth the hard climb up to here and to feel at the top of the world, and can be seen to the south Khumbu glacier sweeps below you, and you can also see the Everest Base camp down below on the moraine of Khumbu glacier and a lot of picturesque scenery. Stroll back to Gorekshep and re-track to Dingboche.  (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 11: Dingboche to Chhukung valley (4730m) 3-4 hrs.
Today, we have a very short day walk and after breakfast, we head further eastern side to 3-4 hrs gentle uphill will reach Chhukung, which is a hidden valley near the base of Island peak. We'll have a full day's rest at the Chhukung and the last place to prepare the camping and check-up climbing gear. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 12: Chhukung - Island Peak Base Camp (5200m) 4-5 hrs.
Today, we head further on to our journey with a steep way climbing the southern part and then turning east to the mainline of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside that leads to what we call Big -rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. We'll reach Island peak base camp after a 4-5 hrs walk. (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 13: Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp (5600m) 3-4 hrs.
After breakfast and packed camping stuff, we'll head on to the High camp from where we start our climb. Firstly the path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder-strewn. As you climb the hill, you will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel nearby where we'll, (Overnight at tented camp on full board basis)

Day 14: High camp to summit (6189m) to Chhukung, 8-9 hrs.
Today is, the day of our destination and as start our climb early morning through the rock gully. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m/330ft snow and ice slope (40-45º) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. You can enjoy with success and brave to get a summit and after some picture taking of scenic view will descend to Chhukung. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 15: Reserve the day for unforeseen conditions.
This day we most kept for the reserve day for the unforeseen condition as weather problems or weakness then you can take this day as your reserve day and if earlier back then you can take the rest somewhere else around. (Overnight at tea house or tented camp on full board basis)

Day 16: Chhukung to Tyangboche (3867m) 5-6 hrs.
The walk today will be easy heading downhill to a lower elevation from Chhukung the walk is pleasant to Tyangboche. After the Dingboche valley and getting down to the bridge our route descends following the stream towards Pangboche village, and further down to Tyangboche is one of the most beautiful places in the Himalayas the first thing that comes to your eye is the big Monastery or Gumba, then the large field with campsites and tea houses, lodges beneath the towering majestic beautiful peak Ama Dablam, Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards the northeast and more peaks all around you. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 17: Tyangboche to Namche (3440m) 6-7 hrs.
Trek down to Phungithanka a small settlement with a couple of tea houses. The trail leads downhill through the forested path of silver fir, blue pines, rhododendron, and some few magnolia and birch trees with great memories after crossing the suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi river trek onwards to the Sanasa and re-track to Namche Bazaar. (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 18: Namche to Lukla (2800m) 6-7 hrs.
After a long walk today we'll have a long and last day trek back to Lukla, Firstly we descend the long way before crossing the bridge and further walk to Monju and ten Phakding for lunch. We trek back enjoying the lush green scenery around and passing through the incredible mountain scenery and local Sherpa village. Arrive in Lukla and you'll have time to stroll around the areas the guide will re-confirm your flight ticket and enjoy the last celebration dinner with your crew member.  (Overnight at tea house on full board basis)

Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu in 30 min.
The flight time to Kathmandu, are scheduled for the morning normally, but because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason beyond our command. Anyway, we will fly back to Kathmandu and your guide will transfer to the hotel. You may have time to relax after a long journey and take back your breath. (Overnight at deluxe hotel on BB basis)

Day 20: Farewell Friend (Final departure to your onward destination).
Today is the last day in Nepal for this trip; you are saying goodbye to the mountains as the journey in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with travel companions and organize the photos. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before the scheduled flight a representative from Mountain Guide Treks will take you to the airport.

(Useful Info:- Please note that often the Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flight gets delayed by a few hours or may even be canceled for one, two, or more days due to bad weather conditions. Such conditions may happen even in the best seasons. Therefore, in such cases, you must be prepared for long waits both at Kathmandu or Lukla airports, as this can happen either at the start or end of the trek or even both! We do our extreme to avoid such delays and fix you on the next flight. Still, we suggest you be prepared for possible delays/cancellations, and if possible come with some extra buffer days (1-2 days) at the end of the trip to accommodate such delays. We also organize Heli rescue in such conditions, if it's available and upon request by our clients. In case, the flight delay/cancellation happens at the start of the trip and it goes so long that it disturbs your onward travel schedule, you are free to choose an alternative trip: such as a trek and Climb in the Annapurna, Langtang, or any other regions. If you are not interested in the alternative trip and would rather wait for the trip, you are welcome to wait in Kathmandu for as many days as it takes to get a flight to Lukla)

Cost Include

  • Airport pick up drop service
  • All land transportation as per itinerary
  • One-day sightseeing tour in Kathmandu with license holder tour guide
  • 4 night's hotel accommodation at Kathmandu in a deluxe hotel on a BB basis
  • Guest house/tented accommodation according to given itinerary (sharing in a 2-bed room) and 3 meals (Breakfast, lunch, Dinner) during the trek
  • Domestic air ticket (Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu)
  • Domestic airport Tax
  • "Farewell dinner" before the day of your departure from Nepal.
  • An experienced English-speaking trek leader (trekking guide), Climbing Leader, assistant Climbing leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide), and Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers: 1 porter) including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food, and lodging.
  • Necessary group climbing gear & equipment
  • Down jacket, for a seasonal sleeping bag, Mountain Guide treks & Expedition kit bag/duffel bag, trekking map (down jacket and sleeping bag are to be returned after trip completion)
  • All necessary paperwork and permits (National park permit, TIMS )
  • A comprehensive medical kit

Cost Exclude

  • Nepal entree visa: you can get a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu (a multiple-entry tourist visa good for 30 days can be obtained by Paying US $ 40 or equivalent foreign currency. Similarly, multiple-entry tourist visas for 90 days can be obtained by paying the US $ 100. Please bring 2 copies of passport-size photos.)
  • International airfare
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, and early return from the mountain(due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, water bottle, hot shower during the trekking, etc.)
  • Personal trekking equipment & clothing
  • Any donation and monuments entrance fee
  • Tips for guides and porters

Note:- The cost includes and excludes section may give you a better idea of how the trip is organized. Once you let us know the number of interested travelers and the departure date we would get back to you with the actual cost for the trip.

The following is a list of equipment, clothing, and accessories that we recommend for Island Peak Climbing in Nepal. This is not intended to be a comprehensive clothing and equipment list; rather it is intended to act as a reminder of those items that we feel necessary for your comfort and convenience. However, we recognize that you may have your personal preferences for equipment and clothing which may be equally as suitable.

Head

  • Light or warm fleece hat.
  • Watch with light & alarm
  • Sun hat and scrap
  • Sunglasses

Upper Body

  • T-shirts (4)
  • Light and expedition weight thermal tops
  • Fleece jacket or sweater
  • Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
  • Down vest and/or jacket (optional)
  • Body lotion / Anti-sunlight cream

Hands

  • Playing cards
  • Lightweight gloves (water/windproof)
  • Trail map and guide book
  • Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer

Lower Body

  • Underwear (4)
  • Hiking shorts (4)
  • Lightweight cotton long pants
  • Lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Fleece or wool pants
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants

Feet

  • Thin, lightweight inner socks (4-pairs)
  • Thick, warm wool hiking socks (4-pairs)
  • Hiking boots with spare laces
  • Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)

Accessories

  • Sleeping bag
  • Tent and all necessary camping equipment
  • Money belt
  • Head touch and batteries
  • Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
  • Water bottle
  • Toiletries
  • Small wash towel

Optional Items

  • Swiss Knife
  • Playing cards / backgammon / chess set
  • Trekking map
  • Books (Highly Recommended)
  • Binoculars
  • Camera & extra batteries
  • Binoculars
  • Reading books
  • Journal & pen
  • Photos of home/family
  • Energy / protein bars (optional)
  • Walkman

Mountaineering Kit

  • Plastic or leather mountaineering climbing boot (one Pair)
  • Crampons (one pair each)
  • Ice Axe (one each)
  • Harness (one each)
  • Carabineer / Three (2 screw gates, 1 plain)
  • Rope (50-60m)
  • Prussic Loops (3 meters)
  • Helmet (one each)
  • Snow Gaiter (one pair each)
  • Jumer / Ascender (one each)
  • Gear tape Seattle
  • Figure 8 / Descender (one each)

Note: If the above schedule does not meet your requirements, we can design individualized travel plans based on your preferences.

Trip Photos

Please click on thumbnail pic to have larger view.

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